Each model remembers its own reasoning effort / fast mode (localStorage,
like model-visibility): editing a model's effort/fast in the submenu
writes its preset, and selecting a model restores its preset onto the
session (capability-gated, Hermes defaults when unset). Every row shows
its own remembered settings (grayed), and the row label and edit submenu
read the same effective value so they can't disagree.
Presets are desktop-client state only — applyModelPreset() no-ops without
a live session id, so selecting a model can't fall through to the
gateway's persistent agent.reasoning_effort / agent.service_tier writes.
Inactive variant `-fast` edits stay preset-only: toggleFast() records
{ fast } on the base model and only swaps models when the row is active,
and selectFamily() honors a saved variant-fast preset by selecting the
`-fast` sibling id.
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